Lesson 2.1 White Soap & Trace

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Welcome to the first exercise in Lesson 2. Let's take a minute to learn some of the basic terminology and get started with the most frequent kind of soap asked about, a simple basic white bar. From here, we start to get an idea of how your oil combination will influence your project.


Difficulty: Beginner Video Time: 8 Minutes

Recipe Instructions

Click the image above to download the pdf.

In the example above you can see the difference between the freshly unmolded soap (ivory) vs. pieces that have been unmolded for 2 days (white) in comparison. The soap will become brighter as it cures.

Lesson 2.1 : White Bars of Soap

     This recipe will yield a bright white bar of soap using cold process using a little titanium dioxide without going over board. Using too much will result in white patches, glycerin rivers, and crackle. Omitting the titanium dioxide will result in a light off white / almost white bar of soap. Expect these bars to lighten even brighter as the soap cures. The following recipe is measured to pour 1 lb. of soap. Multiply x3 if you want to pour a full loaf mold for 11 full pieces.

Ingredients:

  • 6.08 oz. Distilled Water

  • 2.26 oz. Of Lye (NaOH)

  • 4.8 oz Palm Shortening

  • 4.8 oz. Lard

  • 3.2 oz. Coconut Oil

  • 2.4 oz. Canola Oil

  • 0.8 oz. Castor Oil

  • ½ tsp. Titanium dioxide

  • 0.5 oz. Fragrance oil (optional)

Instructions

Carefully pour lye crystals into cold distilled water. (Don't forget to wear your protection clothing: mask, glasses, and gloves) Completely dissolve the crystals, and set the water solution aside to cool to room temperature.

Melt the hard oils and combine with the soft oils. Set this aside to cool to room temperature if necessary.

Prepare the titanium dioxide by blending it down in ½ oz. water or 1 tbsp. of oil depending on the type of titanium dioxide you are using. (Read the package to see if yours is soluble in water or oil or either.)

When both parts are measured at a temperature within a 20 degree window, carefully pour the lye water solution into the oils and blend well with a stick blender.

Add titanium dioxide and ½ oz. of any fragrance oils and blend. Pour into molds and allow 24 hours to set up. Unmold after 24 hours, and set these bars aside for 6 weeks to cure.

Notes:

Fragrance Oil: Know your fragrance oil. You may know that fragrance oils can discolor during the curing process, but many fragrance oils are naturally pink, golden, or blue right out of the bottle. If you pour a thick heavy golden fragrance oil, it will color your soap batter gold. Use a fragrance oil that is clear and also has a description from the manufacturer as not discoloring the finished project.

Titanium Dioxide: ½ tsp. Of TD for 1 lb. Of soap is quite plenty. Your soap will gradually turn bright white as it sets up. Using too much titanium dioxide in your recipe will result in brittleness and glycerin rivers.

Because this recipe uses oils high in saturated fats and hard oils it is likely to come to trace very fast and get very thick. One way to avoid glycerin rivers as a result from titanium dioxide is to pour the soap batter while it is still thin. Mix this recipe just past emulsification and pour while it is still thin.


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Lesson 2 Modules: Cold Process Soap Making

2.02: Lavender Flowers,Gel, & Insulating

2.02: Lavender Flowers,Gel, & Insulating

2.03: Glycerin Rivers & Soda Ash

2.03: Glycerin Rivers & Soda Ash

2.04: Super Fat, DOS, False Trace, & Ricing

2.04: Super Fat, DOS, False Trace, & Ricing

2.05: Neapolitan Clay Bar

2.05: Neapolitan Clay Bar

2.06: Salt Bar & Brine Soap

2.06: Salt Bar & Brine Soap

2.07: Drop Swirl Design

2.07: Drop Swirl Design

2.08: Hangar Swirl Design

2.08: Hangar Swirl Design

2.09: In the Bowl Swirl Design

2.09: In the Bowl Swirl Design

2.10: Column Pour / Spin Swirl Design

2.10: Column Pour / Spin Swirl Design

2.11: Peacock Swirl / Nonpareil

2.11: Peacock Swirl / Nonpareil

2.12: Lava Bubbles

2.12: Lava Bubbles

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